back from Maleku

Ron and I spent a couple of days up in San Rafael Guatoso, mainly hanging out in Tonjibe. Yesterday we had quite the adventure, after taking a taxi out in the early morning, we spent half the day talking with people and waiting for Leonidas, a friend, to show up from town. They have built a new area for tourists and masks, carvings, etc., and we waited until about 2 for him to show. After spending some time with him, we found out that the last bus leaves at 1, and one returns at 4, but then the driver stays in Tonjibe. So, we wound up walking back to the highway (about 7 kilometers) and thinking we would for sure find some kind of a taxi. It was raining pretty good, and we trudged to the highway, then back to Guatoso--not a single taxi in sight. It was a good 2.5 hours hike, and about 10 miles or so, part of it in the dark on a narrow hwy. Heard howler monkeys along the way, and it was good to see the lights of Guatoso and have a beer after the long and wet haul back. But, we did make it, all though with the feet a bit sore. Back in San Jose tonight after a bus ride.

maleku, costa rica, indigenous

We are catching the bus(es) to San Rafael Guatuso, which is closer to the Nicaraguan border. Ron and I will speak with a couple of Maleku leaders and others in local communities. We will head up today and spend a couple of days there, returning either Thursday or Friday, depending on how things go. The Maleku are one of the more acculturated tribes of Costa Rica, having nearly been wiped out by rubbertappers starting in 1940s, they are now reduced to three palenques or small towns. Ron is especially curious about their art, since they seem to be paying attention to the Boruca success with masks and starting to craft some rudimentary masks of their own.

Costa Rica--Blue Jeans Frog and Superman

Back in San Jose, after a great time in Monte Verde, and a couple of days at the Arenal Volcano area. Judy and Hannah got to ride horses, and Miriam and I went on the zip lines again (see Miriam doing "Superman" below. Tomorrow we will be in downtown San Jose, and then on Saturday Judy and family fly back to Oregon, Kathy to California. Just a couple of dings here and there--Hannah has a toe that will need looking at, and Mom/Bestma managed to get one hand in the window and roll it up with the other, creating quite a nice cut.



Blue Jeans Frog up at Monte Verde


Mom and Kathy at Sofias, recommended by Joel and Dave

Judy and Hannah out riding


Violet Sabrewing Hummingbird picture taken by Miriam

Miriam. Is. Superwoman!

costa rica, monte verde

Here are some pictures from the Monte Verde area, which we leave tomorrow morning. In between dumping thunderstorms, we have managed to have a lot of fun, today making it out to the frog pond and back to the reserve. One bummer is the huge mall that is going up between Monte Verde and Santa Elena--hard to believe that people think that is a good idea.

Bestma, Aunt Kathy and Judy on the Monte Verde Reserve trail.

The family at the Sapo Dorado reserve which Joel and Dave recommended. Mauricio, the guide, was great, and much better than the one we had at the coast. Saw the Emerald Toucanet (below) there:


Hummingbirds at Monte Verde.

Emerald Toucanet.
Miriam on the zipline, which she loved!

monte verde RAIN forest

We are currently in Monte Verde rain forest area. Yesterday went to the reserve itself and saw capuchin monkeys, Bestema and Kathy saw a two-toed sloth, and we had great hikes. The stopped off at a co-op that I went to last time with Ron and Jorge for some coffee, and the womens´ cooperative nearby.

Today we did the touristy zip-lines, canopy walks, etc., and had a blast. Miriam especially loved the zip-lines, and we also did insect museum and butterfly exhibit. Not able to get pictures up at the moment, but will try to in the next couple of days. It has been pouring rain now and again, and the lightening makes things iffy for working on electronics. At the end of the tour today we got so wet that I had water running into my shoes and could not have been more wet if I had been thrown in the pool.

esterillos beach pics

Here are some artsy pictures from the beach yesterday.

Croc Day on the Tárcoles River

Today we went up the Tárcoles River to see wildlife and the crocodiles, including an insane guy who feeds them. We didn't think that that was actually part of the trip, but then he hops out. The big one is a croc that is about 18 feet long, and considered the largest in Central America. The other is one of the largest females. Terrific amount of wildlife, including birds and iguanas as well.

punta esterillos

Well, after spending four hours yesterday sitting in a car line and waiting to cross two bridges that have been washed out between her and Quepos, we decided not to do that again. So, today we spent our time with Joel and Dave at the beach. We did some Boogie Boarding, and basically hun out, which turned out to be a lot of fun.

Playa Esterillos

We made it to San Jose, and spent the night there, in a nice hotel VERY nearby to the airport--some of the planes take off and fly directly over the street. The next day we rented the car, a few hours late, and then made it to Playa Esterillos late afternoon. Quite a few stops and starts, but then we had some time with Brother Joel and his boyfriend Dave.

Today we went down to the Quepos and hung around the beach. We are going to a reserve tomorrow and hope to see more.

off to costa rica

We are off to Costa Rica tomorrow, first to the coast to meet up with Joel and Dave, and then to Monte Verde Cloud Forest, and then north. Then I will be working with colleagues Ron and Jorge doing some interviews until my return on August 11.